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For more than 40 years, the New Balance 990 running sneaker has maintained widespread popularity. Therefore, when designers at the Boston-based footwear company proposed adding a cushy foam to increase the midsole by approximately 2 millimeters, they had pushback.
Referring to the move, which occurred in late 2022, vice president of global footwear design at New Balance, Brad Lacey, said it was “hotly debated.” Some people within the company were concerned that this change might exclude the loyal customer base seeking running shoes, many of whom don’t actually use the shoe for running.
However, that wasn’t the case. Cushioning technologies, like New Balance’s FuelCell high-rebound foam designed for racing and created to be worn by athletes at this summer’s Olympics in Paris, have driven record sales for the company and spread throughout the athletic footwear sector.
Executives in the footwear industry indicated a shift in consumer priorities post-pandemic, with comfort taking precedence, especially as people return to office environments. Both emerging brands like On and Hoka and well-known brands like New Balance and Under Armour are battling it out for dominance in the evolving landscape of chunky running shoes.
The competition is taking place within research labs, where scientists utilize specialized equipment to experiment with foam compounds created by chemical firms renowned for collaborating with NASA, working in industries like plexiglass manufacturing, or producing car seats.
Traditionally, cushioning has been a primary focus for running shoes, alongside qualities such as durability, stability, and weight. However, the landscape took a turn around a decade ago when Hoka made a bold move to focus on foam technology above all else.
Kyle Blakely, vice president of innovation at Under Armour, said, “You’ve had a couple of sparks and now the whole market has moved there.”
Currently, the majority of brands offer a flagship super shoe designed for road races, alongside additional tiers of running shoes intended for training purposes.
According to industry executives, companies are “driven by athletic performance,” not on meeting the needs of fashionistas. Ilmarin Heitz, On’s senior director of innovation, said, “If we see that there’s a use case in other communities, then this is an amazing side effect.”
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